We conclude our Thames journey upstream in the search of idyllic locations to eat, drink and sleep with a real classic! Having started at historic Hampton Court (you can click HERE to read about The Mitre Hotel) and then progressed to Bray (you can click HERE to read about The Monkey Island Estate), we have eventually arrived at a beautifully tranquil stretch of the river near Taplow…
Cliveden House, Taplow
A history of parties, scandal and opulence. Tim Price, like many before has fallen under Cliveden’s spell
Our final stop on the Thames is Cliveden House, Taplow and I’m not ashamed to admit that I’m a tiny bit besotted with this place. There is something about settings such as these where one can sense a history that seems almost embedded into the very fabric of the building. As is often the way with Relais & Chateau and Iconic Luxury Hotels property, the heritage is preserved and while it is immaculate in its aged patina, everything – and every little detail is perfectly, tastefully accomplished.
From the tall ceiling, chandelier grandeur of the formal dining room or the Fleming-designed nineteenth-century Parterre and gardens, down to the gothic, romantic quiet charm of Spring Cottage down by the river’s edge where Queen Victoria and the Duchess of Sutherland would take afternoon tea. Every gold embossed menu and Cliveden branded bone china dining plate so impeccably, tastefully presented. Even the boats that can take guests on a trip up this tranquil stretch of the Thames are from their own flotilla of flawlessly restored vintage launches. You can quickly appreciate why Cliveden makes the perfect setting for it’s own literature festival each autumn.
Spring Cottage, where Queen Victoria and the Duchess of Sutherland would take afternoon tea
Yes, this is a very special place. One where if the walls could talk their tales would make a corset-ripping post watershed Sunday evening drama, with many a scandal interwoven amongst the tales of visiting monarchs, politicians, industrialists and superstars. Its colourful history is set perfectly from its very beginnings in 1666 when the 2nd Duke of Buckingham had it built as a gift to his mistress. But amongst the 350 years of fascinating tales that include a duel, heartbreak and two major fires, Cliveden is perhaps best known for two things; Firstly, that it became the family home of The Astor family. American born and with a huge wealth, mainly through his shipping empire, Lord William Waldorf Astor purchased the estate for $1.25 million in 1894, and it seems his quest to create a grand, opulent English country retreat knew no bounds. The 18th century wall panels still seen today in the hotel’s French Dining Room for example were spotted in château d’Asnières near Paris, purchased, painstakingly removed, transported and re-assembled here in deepest Buckinghamshire.
After losing his first wife when she was just 36, Lord Astor eventually remarried to Nancy Langhorne, the American-born British politician who went on to become the first woman seated as a Member of Parliament.
Their extravagant home was renowned for great parties over many generations which leads us on to it’s second famous place in history. It was at one of these gatherings in 1961 when Secretary of State for War, John Profumo first set eyes on model Christine Keeler. Their illicit affair commenced and the national scandal that ensued brought a government to its knees. A Conservative parliamentary scandal. Who would have thought it.
Sleeping surrounded by heritage
Apparently HRH King Charles’ beloved uncle, Earl Mountbatten was one of the other guests at that infamous gathering and the suite that bears his name was our home for the evening.
It is difficult to imagine how this wonderful room could be any more aristocratically old English. Picture perfect in every detail from the carved wood panelling and ornate stuccoed plaster ceiling right down to the antique tables and old paintings. Immaculate in its vintage. Details such as a snooker score board built into the wall decor hint to the fact that this space may previously have been Lord Astor’s billiard room. Who knows which heads of state, leaders of government or perhaps music stars (The Beatles filmed “Help” at Cliveden) once potted the colours in this elegant room?
Mountbatten Suite where Churchill may have dropped Havana ash on Lord Astor’s green felt
It was indeed an honour to have been invited as guests to the 21st century version of a Cliveden party in a place where so such other renowned ones have been played out over the years. This one did not end in a showgirl stripping off to take a dip in the pool. Instead, this wine supper expertly paired with a five-course tasting menu curated by the hotel’s incredibly talented Head Chef, Chris Hannon was a prime example of the kind of soirée that Cliveden lay on as part of a calendar of social events for members of the modern day ‘Cliveden set’ – subscribers to Cliveden’s own members club.
Cliveden Spa facilities include indoor and outdoor heated pools, a state-of-the-art gym, a tennis centre and an inspiring collection of fitness. Photo: © KenRockwell.com
This privileged membership also comes with full use of the Cliveden Spa facilities which include indoor and outdoor heated pools, a state-of-the-art gym, a tennis centre and an inspiring collection of fitness classes. They also enjoy preferential rates giving access to the hotel’s accommodation, cruising on the River Thames and exclusives from the hotel’s retail partners.
Fine cuisine and excellent wine perfectly presented in the grandeur of a room steeped in history before retiring to a suite where Churchill may have dropped Havana ash on Lord Astor’s green felt. You can perhaps understand why Cliveden has me just a bit smitten.
Cliveden House & Spa is at Taplow, Berkshire SL6 0JF
Tel: 01628 668561. www.clivedenhouse.co.uk
Win a Champagne Afternoon Tea for Four people at Cliveden.
A special experience with additional glamour. Here is the chance to enjoy afternoon tea in the stately setting of Cliveden House, Taplow with a glass of chilled Laurent-Perrier Champagne.
Indulge in a selection of savoury treats including perfectly prepared finger sandwiches and tempting modern touches alongside freshly baked scones with clotted cream and homemade strawberry jam, and miniature delectable bite-size cakes and pastries. All served with full-bodied and aromatic Cliveden blend teas.
Terms and conditions: Valid Monday – Thursday Excludes Fridays, Saturday, Sundays, festive menu period, Christmas and New Year. Subject to availability. Once initially redeemed any outstanding amounts cannot be transferred to a future visit.
Other Thames-side hospitality #3:
Windsor to Marlow
Sir Christopher Wren Hotel & Spa, Windsor:
Elegant hotel with historic charm, luxurious rooms, spa facilities, and riverside dining, providing a convenient base from which to explore the town too.
Oakley Court, Water Oakley, Windsor:
We really wanted to showcase this hotel as part of our feature and put in several requests for details and pictures. Heard nothing. Just hope the waiting staff are better than their PR team! Apparently it is a stately riverside hotel with opulent rooms, beautiful grounds and fine dining.
Soho River House, Windsor:
Stylish boutique hotel with chic rooms, a trendy bar, and a vibrant atmosphere, providing the kind of modern and luxurious stay as you would expect from the Soho House Group.
The Boatman, Windsor:
Quaint riverside pub with a cozy interior, serving classic British dishes and ales, offering a relaxed atmosphere.
The Waterside Inn, Bray:
Alain Roux’s Michelin-starred riverside restaurant with luxurious accommodations, offering exquisite French cuisine and impeccable service in this gastro hotspot.
Macdonald Compleat Angler, Marlow:
Elegant hotel with luxurious rooms, riverside dining, and stunning views of the Thames, providing a luxurious escape in Marlow.
www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/compleat-angler
This article also appears in Premier Magazine Summer edition
