We continue our journey upstream in the search of idyllic River Thames locations, heading west, where we soak up the waterside atmosphere along with good food, drink and even perhaps a comfortable, luxurious bed for the night. After leaving historic Hampton Court (you can click HERE to read about our starting point) we meander on to that culinary hot spot – Bray…
Monkey Island Estate, Bray
Seeing it from the inside for once. Our boating friends dine in this fascinating setting that’s packed with history
It’s always interesting when dining companions can open your eyes to a different perspective, and vice versa. Graeme and Lisa are seasoned boaters who must have travelled the Weybridge to Henley stretch of the Thames aboard their trusty and charming traditional steel-hulled narrowboat hundreds of times over the years. It’s been their annual wind-down break for all the time we’ve known them, and for decades before. They are so familiar on this stretch of river and have observed, from their floating perspective, the changes to properties along the banks over time. Having noted, as they chugged past Monkey Island Estate near Bray what looked to them for some time to be forgotten, empty properties, it was therefore going to be fascinating for us all to experience from the inside just how sympathetically the grand Grade I listed pavilions and grounds have now been bought back to their former glory.
YTL Hotels meticulously restored the estate just before the pandemic, preserving its historic charm and elegance. This private island now houses a luxury hotel along with a unique ‘floating spa’ located aboard a Dutch barge.
This private island now houses a luxury hotel along with a unique ‘floating spa’ located aboard a Dutch barge
Set on a seven-acre sliver of land, the Monkey Island Estate boasts over 800 years of history. The heritage properties here were originally commissioned in 1723 by the third Duke of Marlborough as a fishing retreat. The island’s name most likely dates back to 1197 when monks from Merton Priory built fishponds nearby, calling it Monks Eyot. Another legend suggests that mad George III was banished here with a pet monkey, though this is unsubstantiated. Following the 1666 Great Fire of London, rubble from the city’s reconstruction was dumped on the island, elevating it above flood level and making it suitable for building.
The Wedgewood Suite
The pavilion’s ground-floor ‘monkey room’ was where the hotel’s charmingly amiable general manager Kevin kindly arranged a champagne aperitif for our party while he and our river-faring friends compared tide notes and mooring stories. Apparently, so says Kevin, there are plans to hopefully make it easier for passing boats to moor up and enjoy the hotel’s facilities.
Above our heads on the ceiling in this beautifully restored building, which dates back to 1738, is singerie artwork by French specialist Andie de Clermont, depicting monkeys in period garb, punting, fishing, and hunting. A typically narrow period ‘secret staircase’ enables those with a penchant for a wee dram to climb from here up to ‘The Whisky Snug’ above. Negotiating the climb back down after sampling a few from the wide selection, however, would, I’m sure, require maximum concentration.
Throughout there are excellently, tastefully preserved (and updated) examples of this property’s heritage. For us though, dinner was in a more contemporary addition – the light and airy brasserie where they serve lunch, afternoon tea, or dinner either indoors with its vaulted ceilings and wine wall, or out through French doors onto the terrace. And of course, both options are great for observing river life up close.
The Monkey Island Brasserie offers dining with river views, both inside or outside
The menu features plenty of wholesome, unpretentious brasserie fare, crafted in the open kitchen and perfectly suited to quench the fresh-air appetites of boaters and landlubbers alike. My charred octopus was a delight with its added chorizo spice, smooth sweetcorn purée and earthy, tender broad beans.
My charred octopus was a delight with its added chorizo spice, smooth sweetcorn purée and earthy, tender broad beans
There were equally good reports about the ‘unbelievably soft’ cured Scottish salmon as well as that English staple – the prawn cocktail. My lamb rack main was mouthful after mouthful of perfectly red tenderness. With a herb crust and peppery ratatouille, it was bursting with flavour. Definitely one I would want to order again. The same goes for the very pretty rhubarb tart, the flavour of which was tangy and bright but with a sweet, burnt-honey cream accompaniment.
Meanwhile, across the table one of our boating duo had high praise for their Creedy Carver chicken breast and creamy celeriac purée. “I could never cook a chicken to taste as good as that at home” was the conclusion.
And I imagine it would be a task even more challenging in the galley of a 50ft barge. But now having seen the delights that lie inside, I don’t think Lisa and Graeme would take much persuasion to come back next time they’re floating by.
They would be following in some eminent footsteps too; other notable visitors to the estate have included Edward VII, Dame Nellie Melba, Siegfried Sassoon, and H.G. Wells. Sir Edward Elgar even composed part of his First Symphony Violin Concerto at The Hut, a house on the adjacent bank. Monkey Island is that sort of place. It draws you in with a combination of charm, rich social history and good food (as you would hope in a foodie location such as Bray). And don’t worry – you don’t have to be on a boat to come here; the Duke’s old retreat has been linked to the shore by a footbridge since 1956.
Monkey Island Estate, Bray-on-Thames, Bray, Maidenhead, Berkshire SL6 2EE
Telephone: 01628 623 400
Other Thames-side hospitality #2:
Walton to Egham
The Anglers, Walton:
Charming riverside pub with a spacious terrace, serving delicious food and ales, offering a scenic spot to relax by the Thames.
www.pubanddining.co.uk/anglers-walton-on-thames
The Swan, Walton:
Riverside pub and hotel with comfortable rooms, a lively atmosphere, and a menu featuring British favourites, providing a warm welcome. www.swanwalton.com
The Red Lion, Shepperton:
Award winning, traditional pub with a cozy interior, serving classic pub food and ales, offering a friendly atmosphere. www.redlionshepperton.com
Thames Court, Shepperton:
Riverside pub and hotel with comfortable accommodations, serving hearty meals and offering stunning views of the Thames. www.vintageinn.co.uk
The Bridge Hotel, Chertsey:
Historic hotel with elegant rooms, a riverside terrace, and a restaurant serving modern British cuisine, providing a charming stay. www.bridgehotelchertsey.com
The Runnymede on Thames, Egham:
Upscale hotel with stylish rooms, spa facilities, riverside dining, and scenic views of the Thames, offering a contemporary retreat. www.runnymedehotel.com
The next leg of our river journey..
Our stop-off #3 on our journey upstream will follow in a few days, but you can view the article in the summer edition HERE.
