Dinner at The Dorchester. How nice that phrase trips off the tongue. The very name of this renowned establishment has for so long now had such standing and kudos, not just as one of those in a small elite list of London’s very finest luxury hotels, but one with a reputation internationally too. An obvious draw for globe-travelling tourists looking for the finer things in London. With such pedigree it comes with certain expectations of classical grandiose Britishness and it does not disappoint.
Even after the recent redesign / re-opening of spaces like ‘The Vesper Bar’, the plush interiors, in particular ‘The Promenade’ restaurant remain as tasteful, elegant, and traditional as many a premium sightseer would expect. Let’s face it, it would out of keeping if The Dorchester suddenly became minimalist chic. It would be like King Charles sporting a slicked hair and a tattoo!
Yes, the choice of eateries within this renowned establishment do include places where you can dine in a casual setting, such as ‘The Grill by Tom Booton’, and the delicate pastry offerings of ‘Cake & Flowers’, but the Three Michelin-starred ‘Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester’ and ‘The Promenade’ are restaurants that you feel really worth dressing up for and where you feel special once you’re there.
The Vesper Bar – a subtly lit space which stands ready to envelop you in its cool, sophisticated interior
We booked at the latter but started off with cocktails the The Vesper Bar. Designed by Martin Brudnizki (whose work includes Annabel’s just around the corner and Fortnums in Hong Kong) this subtly lit space stands ready to envelop you in its cool, sophisticated interior.
The Vesper Bar is indeed a place where it is easy to imagine 007 entering with a swagger (and possibly leaving somewhat later with a stagger!).
A touch of Art-Deco with tones of coffee, foxed mirrors, swagged curtains, low tables, and a jazz soundtrack all set the mood perfectly for a Vesper Martini or indeed many other James Bond-inspired cocktails. And with good reason, The Dorchester’s history is rich with Bond connections. This is apparently where Film Producer Harry Saltzman first met Ian Fleming during the war before teaming up with Albert Broccoli to bring the world’s best known spy character to the big screen. In fact, Fleming would often meet, dine, and gamble here, the Goldfinger wrap party took place within these walls, as did the launch of Roger Moore as Connery’s replacement in the role. The Vesper Bar is indeed a place where it is easy to imagine 007 entering with a swagger (and possibly leaving somewhat later with a stagger!).
As for The Promenade with its immaculate, decoratively ornate plaster ceilings, pillars, floral displays, palms, buttoned sofas and soft cushions, manages to be full of old world charm but without being stuffy. A place that definitely feels very special. Perfect for afternoon tea too, but the dinner menu here created by culinary director Martyn Nail is suitably varied with all the bases covered; from soup and sandwiches to a grill selection through to the humble pizza (which of course is not so humble when given the Promenade treatment).
Starters included beetroot tartare with a tarragon emulsion, game terrine with girolle and pickled walnut, seared venison with beetroot, blackcurrant and celeriac, plus enticing aquatic selections from Cornish crab salad, smoked salmon and lobster cannelloni with sauce fleurette and truffle jus. Lobster also featured in the grill options, in the form of the classic thermidor as did Aberdeen angus sirloin and fillets, lamb cutlets, halibut and salmon. While Dover sole – either grilled or meunière looked an enticing choice within the main course menu accompanied by leaf spinach and new potatoes. Equally tempting were a chicken and langoustine pie, a roast rack of lamb with sweetbreads and tournedos Aberdeen angus beef with celeriac, Burgundy jus, and beetroot. But I finally opted for a veal Viennoise topped by a perfectly rich, runny duck egg with capers sitting on bed of creamed spinach. While across the table Mrs P had nothing but praise for the subtle flavours and succulence of her Scottish halibut with its smooth sauce Américaine and brown shrimps. Well prepared, beautifully presented and yet so filling that she could not even be persuaded to choose a dessert to follow.
Theatrical cuisine; Harry conjures up The Dorchester’s Old Tom crêpe
I however was determined to find room and having perused The Promenade’s desserts and cheese menu among the Tahitian vanilla mille-feuille, the citrus pavlova, a 68% dark chocolate crémeux and a poached pear and almond tart, I conjectured that the Old Tom crêpe was the only choice that might make a suitably theatrical ending to a fine meal. I was right. Meticulously prepared table-side by our excellent young waiter Harry, this Dorchester version of a crêpes suzette uses Old Tom London Gin instead of Grand Marnier. But any doubts I had about its flammability were soon put to rest. The Tom and Harry combination flambé which leapt into the air of this refined restaurant was suitably dramatic while the sweet, caramelised taste that resulted was contrasted beautifully by the citrus of grapefruit and the velvety creaminess of Madagascan vanilla ice cream. Understandably a highlight of the meal, but if I had to pick a couple of others (and there were plenty) one was my exceptional Portland scallops starter with its roast cauliflower, sea beet and a wonderfully silky caviar cream. Or perhaps the taste of Mrs P’s sweetly fragrant pre-dinner Vesper Bar Rose cocktail.
Exceptional food and drink in an exceptional setting with staff that managed to be both attentive yet unobtrusive. Dinner at The Dorchester; Definitely still as special as it sounds.
The Promenade Restaurant
The Dorchester
53 Park Lane
London W1K 1QA
Tel: 020 7629 8888
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