Someone should enlighten America’s vice president (and also UK Reform’s Nadhim Zahawi come to that) that in reality, our capital is a far cry from the picture they try to paint on poisonous social media and recent interviews. Instead of an uneasy place where scary things lurk around every corner, it is a diverse, buzzing, world-beating metropolis. And then on Sundays, much of it wakes to a more laid-back vibe which is both charming and unique – and no more so than in the pretty residential lanes of South Kensington. Just minutes from the grandeur of Kensington Palace and the joggers, cyclists and happy families strolling in Hyde Park is Launceston Place. Here, amidst the narrow picturesque streets and terraces of early Victorian villas with their stucco facades and classical detailing, there a is distinct almost village-like atmosphere. An ideal setting for a ‘neighbourhood’ version of Sartoria – the iconic Italian restaurant and bar from Savile Row. The original was founded in 1990 by Sir Terence Conran, with the idea of blending Milanese style and Italian cuisine with the bespoke tailoring heritage of its Savile Row address.
Under the Evolv Collection, Sartoria aims to advance from its flagship base into a growing brand with additional locations such as Liverpool Street (opening soon) and here, Launceston Place.
Sartoria Launceston Place has a suitably elegant façade in keeping with the surroundings, whilst inside it certainly achieves that ‘local eatery’ feel. The ‘pranzo della domenica’ three-course Sunday roast menu is clearly also designed to tap into the chilled weekend vibe, at a very reasonable £45 per head set price.
Seated at our table under a skylight, the pale blue walls around us are adorned with creative black-and-white photos that cleverly hint towards the Savile Row connection: Italian cuisine meets English tailoring.
The ‘pranzo della domenica’ three-course Sunday roast menu is clearly also designed to tap into the chilled weekend vibe, at a very reasonable £45 per head set price.
People watchers may want to opt for a seat by the tall windows at the front of the restaurant, looking out as a steady parade of Lime bikes and locals stroll past in the narrow street, many clasping a take-away cup from the popular Scandi coffee house HJEM next door.
Sartoria’s Sunday roast menu is limited and uncomplicated; three antipasti, four arrosti (roasts) and just two desserts. My dining partner was my vegetarian son and fortunately the only options open to him were absolutely fine (especially the classic Italian baked aubergine parmigiana to which he gave rave reviews), but it’s worth checking the menu before booking.
The tuna tartare with pickled Tropea onions was pretty to behold and perfect in its wholesome saltiness and crunch
Porchetta and Torta Diplomatica
I started with a delicious tuna tartare with pickled Tropea onions: pretty to behold and perfect in its wholesome saltiness and crunch. The slow-roasted pork which followed had all the heartiness of an English Sunday staple but with a Milanese twist. Succulent pork with a herb stuffing and the crispiest, thin outer ring of crackling. Accompanied, like all arrosti courses, by olive-oil enhanced Italian vegetables, tomato gravy, focaccia bread and a side dish of roasted potatoes, it was satisfyingly filling. But a torta diplomatica dessert with airy sponge, puff pastry, diplomatica cream and some glorious Amarena cherries was both subtle in sweetness and suitably light to finish.
A pleasant bottle of Pinot Nero Friuli suited our roasts while an unobtrusive soundtrack of cool jazz interspersed with Italian crooners all helped to add to the chilled atmosphere and our waitress Aiyana was delightful, forever smiling and informative.
I can only imagine that once the evening sets in and the candles are lit, the atmosphere here would transform once again into something different and more intimate. I would love to come back.
And if Messrs Vance and Zahawi feel brave enough to stop the rhetoric and actually experience a corner of real London, they should set the coordinates on the motorcade to Launceston Place London W8 and be prepared to eat their words (as well as some fine Milanese cuisine).
Sartoria – Launceston Place is at 1A Launceston Place , London, W8 5RL Tel: 020 7937 6912
www.sartoria-launcestonplace.co.uk
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