Regular revisits to a fine-dining landmark are perhaps a good way to gauge its journey and evolution. A chance to witness whether it is striking the balance between serving up the mainstays and creativity that earned it an accolade, and yet still coming up with new ideas both on the plate and within the restaurant. I obviously don’t get to do it as regularly as those Michelin-star bods but reacquainting myself with The Clock House in Ripley was a much anticipated experience. My first time here was way back when it was ‘Drakes’, then subsequently to sample the work of head chef Fred Clapperton under its current name.
Now, a few years further on, it’s pleasing to be opening the door and stepping inside this attractive Georgian building once more, passing the 2023 updated shiny Michelin star on the wall on my way in. Serina Drake has steered her beloved restaurant through the trials of Covid and much more and now Luke Spier heads up her kitchen. Having worked across the Gordon Ramsay Group for over six years at restaurants that include The Savoy, plus stints at Simon Rogan’s Roganic, as well as running his own ‘Fir’ 18-month pop-up, Luke is well qualified to continue to keep Serina’s pride and joy on the right path.
Chic and contemporary, the first floor bar
Elegant and classic – the private dining room
The first thing I notice is that the bar has found a new home on the first floor. Chic and intimate, it has views over the garden, while the elegant wood-panelled room it vacated has now been transformed into a refined private dining room. The panes on the restaurant’s classic sash windows are illustrated by a local artist to reflect the colours of the season. And the art hanging elsewhere (including pieces from our friends at Jo Downs glass, Sunningdale) makes a nice addition too. I think there’s still plenty of wall space for more though. Apparently, the kitchen has undergone a high-tech refit over the summer too and as we sit down to enjoy one of the first services since reopening for the autumn, The Clock House is encouragingly busy for a Thursday evening.
The tasting menu offered a diverse culinary journey which began with the saline of a Porthilly Oyster, tamed by light champagne foam and the clean, sharpness of apple. Earthy flavours of mushroom were then paired with faint floral notes from seaweed and fine Avruga. A bread course introduced simple spelt and treacle bread with an absolutely delicious slightly tangy cultured butter that was almost cheesy in flavour. Perfectly crispy brassicas were next, combining with the soft texture of mussel and delicateness of camomile.
A wild sea bass of the gentleness of texture came with a faultlessly crispy skin, al dente charred courgette, and sweet crab meat, before slices of perfectly pink aged beef arrived with a rich accompaniment of ox heart, bone marrow, and earthy aubergine.
Wild sea bass with courgette and crab
A bread course introduced simple spelt and treacle bread with an absolutely delicious slightly tangy cultured butter
‘Douglas fir’ with a fruity and peppery juniper topping, accompanied by a well-balanced light, subtly sweet sheep milk
The transition to sweet was seamless with a bijou honey and bee pollen dish, while the ‘Douglas fir’ pastry dessert hinted at the faintest of distant pine with its fruity and peppery juniper topping, accompanied by a well-balanced light, subtly sweet sheep milk. Four perfectly varied cheeses, jams, jellies and a very rich truffle honey rounded off a pleasant three hour culinary indulgence.
Needless to say, much work has equally gone into The Clock House’s wine list, so the optional five-glass wine flight is well worth considering to maximise all those wide and varied flavours. In fact, it seems to me that much work has gone into a lot of good things in this very agreeable Surrey fine-dining landmark since I last visited. Culinary evolution is alive and well in the charming village of Ripley.
The Clock House is at High Street, Ripley, Woking, Surrey, GU23 6AQ
Tel: 01483 224777
www.theclockhouserestaurant.co.uk
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