Photography: www.itsmelouis.com
Stepping into Kanpai Classic is more than dining; it’s an immersive culinary journey, a testament to the art of Japanese barbecue. From the moment you’re greeted, you understand that this isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a passion project, further elevated by the exquisite omakase-style service that guides you through a meticulously curated feast celebrating Japanese A5 Grade Wagyu.
The Art of Understanding Your Meat
Our evening began with a captivating and highly detailed visual explanation of the difference between Japanese Wagyu and Angus beef. Our waiter, whose knowledge and enthusiasm for the subject were palpable, passionately guided us through the nuances, setting the stage for the meal to come. It was clear he didn’t just serve the food; he understood its very essence, a prelude to the chef’s selections that would unfold before us.
A Symphony of Starters
The culinary procession began with their triple-cooked truffle chips alongside a delicate steak tartare and caviar. The combination was heavenly, a perfect prelude to the richness that awaited. Next, was an open, roll your own temaki sushi, featuring glistening salmon pearls, fresh tuna, and melt-in-your-mouth Wagyu. The interactive element added to the fun, and the flavours were divine. This was followed by impeccably crafted Wagyu gyozas, a vibrant yuzu and ponzu sauce, and a Wagyu spring roll served with a rich truffle ketchup.
The Unforgettable Grill Experience
Then came the main event: an array of premium meats, cooked before our eyes – one of the components of the omakase journey. The expertise and knowledge of the chefs is all part of your experience at Kanpai Classic; we learned that it takes 2-3 months of intensive training just to be allowed to cook the meats in front of guests.
First up was the beef tongue, cooked to a mouthwatering tenderness. It literally melted away. Ribeye followed, marinated in a custom blend of garlic soy sauce and sugar, the subtle marinade blending seamlessly with the melting beef in an instant explosion of flavour. The Negiyaki which followed was a leaner, more worked cut of meat, paired with a beautiful combination of grated spring onion, sesame, and onion. Next, we savoured the Karubi with a subtle saltiness of shio konbu combining well with the beef’s perfect rich fattiness.
Comfort and Culinary Crescendos
After the intenseness of the grilled meats, a moment of contrast arrived in the form of the Kamameshi chicken rice dish. Our waiter aptly described it as “a warm hug from your mum” and he wasn’t wrong. The gentle heat of the rice and chicken had subtle notes of ginger in a way that did indeed seem distinctly comforting and homely to the taste.
The journey continued with the Wagyu Rib Finger, prepared with thin cuts to allow the tendons to melt into collagen. Served with a spicy dipping sauce, the flavours melded with the steak and danced on the tongue. To further explore the Wagyu spectrum, we were then served portions of rump and topside sirloin, expertly paired with wasabi and chimichurri. The topside in particular just fell apart in waves of beefy juiciness!
A Sweet Ending and a Philosophy of Excellence
To culminate our feast, a delicious chocolate fondue and a tiramisu provided a suitably pleasing end to a perfect meal. Beyond the exquisite food, Kanpai Classic’s commitment to quality is impressive. They have the unique advantage of being able to buy their meats in bulk and select only the absolute best ones for each of their establishments.
Sake pairings
The Kanpai Classic Sake Menu, features a curated selection of premium Masuizumi sakes imported directly from Japan. The beverage programme also includes signature cocktails, premium Japanese whiskies, and a sophisticated wine list.
The Kanpai success extends to Michelin-stars
Founded in Taiwan in 1999, Kanpai Group now have several acclaimed restaurants across Taiwan and China. In 2017 and 2018, Kanpai Classic made history as the world’s first Michelin-starred Yakiniku restaurant in Shanghai.
I didn’t imagine anywhere outside of Japan where diners could experience an authentic chef-led omakase journey. But Kanpai Classic is definitely the real deal, and it’s just here – in the heart of Soho. An absolute must-visit.
Kanpai Classic is located at 147-149 Wardour Street, London, W1F 8WD. Tel: 0203 893 3933
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