For me the ideal dining experience is about far more than just food. I love to feel that I’ve immersed myself into the feel-good ambience of being in a space that is created to be aesthetically pleasing; sympathetic to its location whilst being served by smiling staff who are attentive and professional. With those boxes ticked I’m into my happy place before a morsel has even passed my lips.
Penningtons is such a place. The fact that it serves great food too is a bonus.
When I tell you that the location of this ‘modern British brasserie’ is Windsor’s Royal Row it will help you picture the scene. Virtually across the road from the castle amidst some of the remodelled architecture of the town’s Victorian railway era, this restaurant set within the Castle Hotel launched this summer and has an interior that has been absolutely perfectly pitched. It’s empire, but timeless. Pillars, palms, chrome, wood, marble but with touches such as typical brasserie-style comfortable button-back benches, it still manages to be cool and unpretentious.
The name Penningtons is a nod back to the 17th century when the Mermaid Inn which stood on this spot was run by an enterprising trader called George Pennington who issued tokens bearing the inn’s emblem. It’s from this that the Mermaid logo of today’s 21st century house of hearty food and hospitality is drawn.
It’s empire, but timeless. Pillars, palms, chrome, wood, marble but with touches such as typical brasserie-style comfortable button-back benches, it still manages to be cool and unpretentious.
The website calls it ‘A modern British brasserie that honours the heritage of great British cooking’, hence the menu overseen by Head Chef Iain Ganson (previously of Thames Lido), is suitably concise, and easy and undaunting to peruse. There are snacks such as olives, cheddar and ale rarebit and pork pie, starters including venison tartare, chalk-stream trout and charred broccoli, four choices of mains with a couple of veggie options plus a cheek pie or market fish. Then there was the ‘from the grill’ section with some steaks, chops, chicken or flat fish.
Mrs P. had great things to say about her smoked trout starter accompanied by deliciously warm rye bread
I started with half-shell scallops sitting in a smoked coral butter. A simple dish done well, these were four bitesize chunks of smooth buttery perfection. Definitely a highlight.
For mains I tucked into a hanger steak topped with a very decent gentlemen’s relish while across the table, Mrs. P had praise for the catch of the day: pollock on a bed of spinach and beans.
But they had saved the best until last – the dessert trolley.
When you visit Penningtons, and honestly, I really urge you to, this four-wheeled culinary shop window of sweet delicacies is a modern twist on the grand experience of fine dining’s Victorian era. In glorious polished wood, bespoke etched with the restaurant name and topped with a domed glass display, it adds a touch of theatre and presentation to a meal finale. Slide-out trays of beautifully showcased mini desserts allow diners the option to choose according to their level of remaining appetite. It made for a memorable finish, and not just from a visual point of view. Hats off to Pastry Chef Suhas because each dessert was sensational on the taste buds too.
I had four: a bite-size apple crumble, a wonderfully delicate rose and elderflower Victoria sponge cake, a light-as-air coconut macaroon and, my favourite dessert – not just from this meal but for more years that I can remember – a wonderfully indulgent choux bun bursting to the seams with heavenly raspberry and vanilla cream. Glorious.
All boxes had been ticked – and then some. Even if they hadn’t decided to build that big castle tourist attraction on the Heathrow flight path 😉 Windsor is worth a visit just for Penningtons.
Penningtons is in The Castle Hotel, 18 High Street, Windsor SL4 1LJ
Tel: 01753 641 342
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