Fresh. It’s perhaps the adjective most overused when it comes to reviews of restaurants, easy as it is to almost cut and paste the ever-present phrase ‘fresh ingredients’ direct from menu into article, with perhaps ‘locally sourced’, ‘foraged’ or ‘artisan’ now coming up just behind. And of course we have no reason to doubt the authenticity.
But it was my Azzurra dining experience that helped put the word into clear perspective.
Azzurra opened in 2023 as part of the Aqua Restaurant Group whose portfolio extends to Hong Kong, Paris, New York, Miami and Dubai and includes Aqua Shard and Dim Sum Library. Aqua’s founder, David Yeo, got his inspiration from travels through Sicily and the Amalfi Coast and wanted to bring the elegance and simplicity of that Mediterranean cuisine to a chic setting in the heart of Chelsea.
David Yeo got his inspiration from travels through Sicily and the Amalfi Coast
The scene is set from the moment one arrives at 127 Sloane Street; al fresco tables are set on the restaurant’s wide canopied terrace and through the expansive glazed frontage you get a glimpse of an inviting contemporary interior that lies within. Once inside, the style is perfectly executed to create a space that is Chelsea cool yet welcoming. A selection of the day’s ‘catch’ is displayed on ice in a raw bar while a different kind of cool bar – the cocktail variety, extends the length of the restaurant.
A selection of the day’s ‘catch’ is displayed on ice in a raw bar while a different kind of cool bar – the cocktail variety, extends the length of the restaurant.
The space is cleverly broken up by assorted dining options with booths, benches and regular table settings. Above, rope nets hang from the tall ceilings and creatively around pillars. I know what you’re thinking: seafood restaurant and fishing nets – sounds a bit corny. But you couldn’t be further from reality. You just need to look at the pictures.
It’s Azzurro’s interior design that was one of several things that really left an impression on me. It was clean and sharp with such attention to the small details. It was a collaboration between David Yeo and Robert Angell Design International whose portfolio includes the newly revitalised Simpson’s on the Strand, Hutong, New York and Raffles, Jeddah. In fact, it won best restaurant design – Europe at the 2024 International Hotel and Property Awards.
But would the level of the food match the acclaim of the decor?
The menu certainly looks comprehensive enough to be able to satisfy the desires of those with a taste for the sea. Beyond Oscietra or Kristal caviar, the ‘crudo’ options include oysters, sea bass and yellowtail; and ‘cicchetti’ selections such as red prawns, sea bream, lobster and calamari. Pasta and Risotto dishes include lorighittas al polpo (octopus, chilli, datterini tomato, olive oil and parsley emulsion), linguine all’astice (with Dorset clams and Sardinian mullet bottarga) and spaghetti crab with chilli and samphire. However, both meat lovers and vegetarians are also catered for with options such as tartufata and margherita pizzas, rigatoni alla norma, tagliata sirloin, chicken Milanese and rump of lamb.
My sea bream carpaccio starter was an exquisite example. Accompanied by a smoked cod emulsion, it was chilled, light and delicate, while little saline pops of salmon roe and a peppery cress added contrast.
The restaurant puts strong emphasis on daily hand sourcing of the finest produce from places such as Billingsgate and it is evident on the palate. It’s only when you taste fresh seafood, and I mean really fresh, that you suddenly have an appreciation for what you’ve been missing. My sea bream carpaccio starter was an exquisite example. Accompanied by a smoked cod emulsion, it was chilled, light and delicate, while little saline pops of salmon roe and a peppery cress added contrast. Across the table, four slices of deep ruby-red fresh tuna belly, topped with salsa puttanesca and sea purslane were meaty and moreish. A creamy risotto Milanese followed; a seafood ragu topped with calamari, mussels and prawns that, so obvious to the taste, were (here’s that word again) market fresh. Full of flavour.
Mrs P’s grilled Dover sole with garlic and parsley butter was filleted at the table and perfectly flaky with a suitably delicate, melt-in-the mouth flavour. My pistachio tiramisu dessert also got a table-side preparation; the espresso poured with Italian panache onto light sponge before the rich mascarpone was lovingly spooned on. Each mouthful mixed creamy smoothness with an intense hit of caffeine.
Simply titled ‘limone’, smooth ricotta and white chocolate combined in a perfect vivid-coloured gently brittle lemon-shaped case
Meanwhile one of the prettiest dishes that I’ve ever seen was the choice of my dining partner. Simply titled ‘limone’, smooth ricotta and white chocolate combined in a perfect vivid-coloured gently brittle lemon-shaped case, beautifully presented on a green bed including edible flowers.
The service was very friendly; the staff deserve much credit for their unforced cheeriness. In particular Luminita, the manager, whose enthusiasm was truly infectious. But it was also very prompt. On the Thursday evening we dined, we could have been in and out in an hour and a half. But there are always plenty of digestifs to enjoy at the bar if you want to extend your evening.
You’ll get family or friends brownie points for endorsing it, plus the added kudos of being able to drop the phrase ‘I know a little place just off Sloane Square’ into your conversation
This really is a very smart restaurant. Definitely the kind of place to have in your locker of recommendations when friends or family next suggest a relaxed get-together over lunch or dinner, especially if they are fans of seafood. Even if it’s for more of a ‘let your hair down’ kind of evening with oysters (perhaps it’s a first date!) or cocktails to start, and cool music to finish (they have a programme of live jazz on Saturday nights), Azzurra is that kind of place. If our experience is anything to go by, it won’t let you down. You’ll get family or friends brownie points for endorsing it, plus the added kudos of being able to drop the phrase ‘I know a little place just off Sloane Square’ into your conversation. In fact, it’s not little at all; it has 120 covers but it still manages to have the feel of a Chelsea neighbourhood eatery. Try something fresh.
Azzurra is at 127 – 128 Sloane Street, London, SW1X 9AS
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